Bernardino de Sahagún a Franciscan monk accompanying the Conquistadors describes a 16th century Mexican recipe prepared by the Aztecs in a ritual honouring the fertility god Xipe Tótec (take note 'Old El Paso').
"Having flayed them, the elders called 'Quaquauacuitlin' would take the bodies to the 'Calpul' (meeting house) where the owner of the captive had made his devotion or oath. There they divided them up and sent a thigh for Moctezuma to eat, and they would share the rest between the other dignitaries and relatives....They stewed that meat with maize and gave everyone a piece of the meat in a clay bowl or pot with its broth and the cooked maize. They called this dish 'Tlacatlaolli'; after having eaten, the drunken revelry would begin."
- Historia general de las cosas de la Nueva España, Bernardino de Sahagún
The prudish Spaniards took a dim view of human sacrifice and soon spoilt the party, however the ritual of stewing meat with maize (sometimes followed by drunken revelry) is still very much alive in Mexico today. 'Pozole' - Poh-so-lay, a broth of pork and hominy is a national institution usually eaten as a family weekend meal or at celebrations such as independence day.
Having been fortunate enough to study in Mexico for 6 months as an exchange student I'd tasted Pozole in some of it's various guises, green with tomatillo in Acapulco, red in Guadalajara and the traditional white 'Pozole blanco' in Balham?
On Tuesday I was privileged to join my Mexican friend Dulce and her family for dinner. It was a special and difficult occasion, Dulce's mum Rosa and sister Carina were returning to Mexico having spent a year and a half in London. Before leaving they were cooking up a vat of farewell Pozole.
Despite it's variations what makes a Pozole is the 'maíz pozolero' known as 'Cacahuazintle' in Nahuatl. These are large white maize kernels similar to North American hominy, which have been pre-cooked for a few hours in a solution of water and lime (not the fruit) to soften and remove the husks. Nowadays this is often bought pre-prepared in tins.
In the version Rosa and Carina cooked 'Pozole blanco', the prepared maize is then boiled with a few cloves of garlic until it opens, a bit like popcorn. This produces the foam from which Pozole gets it's name (pozolli is the Nahuatl for foamy). At this point the pork is added; Rosa used shoulder and hock although she told us a traditionalist would use a head. Throw in a pinch of oregano and it's the left to simmer for a couple of hours.
Whilst it was bubbling away Rosa rustled up some 'tostadas de tinga' fried corn tortillas topped with refried beans, chicken tinga (shredded chicken in a smoky tomato and chipotle sauce), ricotta (requesón) and lettuce.
When the pork was tender it was shredded and served in bowls with the maize and broth and a selection of ingredients for people to add to their taste. These included sliced radish, onion, oregano, limes, lettuce, ricotta and a fiery salsa made from 'chile de arbol'; thin, vicious chilis which were roasted on a skillet 'comal' and blended till smooth with garlic, vinegar, water and oregano.
Pozole is real comfort food simple and satisfying, especially when served with such warmth and in bottomless bowls. It was fantastic to experience something like this in London where apart from the odd decent attempt, authentic Mexican food is scarce, everyone's swept up in the current craze for burritos and overpriced, sanitised tacos. Over dinner Rosa indulged my passion for her native cooking, explaining in depth the differences between various moles and listing the tacos she was going to eat when she got home. I left longing for a return trip.
In London, Mestizo (a Mexican owned restaurant) serves Pozole which I haven't tried yet http://www.mestizomx.com/london.html . Alternatively have a go yourself, there are various recipes online and you can get the ingredients from either El Azteca (cheaper) http://www.elaztecafood.co.uk/ the website's in Spanish but they speak English, or Cool Chile (more expensive but more user friendly) http://www.coolchile.co.uk/ . Casa Mexico in Bethnal Green is also very good with a superb range or Mexican cupboard essentials and cookware including molcajetes, traditional lava rock mortar and pestles.
A huge thanks to the Ramírez-Martínez family and best of luck back in Querétaro!
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