Monday, 23 March 2009

Argentina: Buen Ayre








I must admit, I'd been looking forward to this one. The photos don't do it justice, by the time I'd remembered my camera the mixed grill had been savaged and my beef bound fingers fumbled with the flash.

Buen Ayre, owned and cheffed by master 'asador' John Rattagan, is something of an institution for London's carnesseurs and one of the few authentic Argentine Parrillas on offer. This was my first visit having already been to Santa Maria del Sur in Battersea, originally a sister restaurant, which now belongs to Rattagan's former business partner Alberto Abbate. From what I remember (through a Malbec mist) the meal there was excellent, though looking at their website recently they seem to have toned down the menu a bit omitting must haves such as sweetbreads and kidneys.

Apparently the partners chose Broadway Market as a location for Buen Ayre (the first restaurant) because it reminded them of San Telmo, the old town of Buenos Aires. Rattagan has stayed true to these roots and a winning formula of quality Argentine beef, perfectly grilled. The simple wooden furnishings within sight and smell of the impressive, height adjustable charcoal parrilla and an eclectic collection of memorabilia (including a sacred photo of Diego) create the perfect atmosphere for gorging unceremoniously on the Pampas's finest.

My fellow diner 'The Bass' and I went for the 'Parrillada Deluxe', a vast mixed grill including a 14oz Sirloin (Bife de chorizo), an 11oz Rib-eye (Bife ancho), two chorizos, two black puddings (Morcilla) and a wheel of Provolone. We also ordered sweetbreads which earnt us a high five from the waiter 'It's like caviar!', and a portion of chips and salad.

When it comes to cow Argentines are practically minotaurs, their love and understanding of beef is second to none. The meat was faultless, beautifully charred and salt crusted on the outside, pink and dripping within. 'Bass', a patriotic half Brazilian and churrasqueira fanatic was suitably impressed. Mollejas (sweetbreads) were worth paying the extra for, the same crisp, charred texture from the parrilla complimenting their rich creaminess. Both the chorizo, less aggressive with the pimentón than its Spanish counterpart, and the morcilla, more aromatic than its cousin in Bury, played well down the flanks. The Provolone which oozed menacingly across the brazier eventually did for us.

Steak can unite us all (apart from the veggies) and it was heartwarming to see young and old in loving communion with slabs of beef. The excitement on the faces of the girls next to us, dwarfed by their sirloins, almost brought a tear to my eye. Buen Ayre isn't cheap, for the two of us with a beer and a moderately priced Malbec it came to £108, but for my money it's one of the best meals I've had in London. Compared to other restaurants serving steaks of the same quality it's actually pretty good value. Rattagan excels at what he does, meat, and it's a privilege that he shares the essence of his native cooking in such an unadulterated way.

Buen Ayre, 50 Broadway Market, London E8 4QJ
Tel: 020 7275 9900
http://www.buenayre.co.uk/index.htm


Buen Ayre on Urbanspoon

3 comments:

  1. Hello!! I googled myself (whohadn't done it?) and I found this article, so I want it to write a big THANK YOU!! I have opened a new place, A la Cruz, check it out. Best regards! John Rattagan http://www.alacruz.com

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  2. Ha no probs John, had a great meal. Will definitely have to check out A la Cruz at some stage.

    The menu and the asador look great, I've always fancied having a go at doing a side of beef on one of those myself!

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  3. Hace rato que quiero comer un buen asado, lastima que no me sobra como para ir a Buen Ayre. J. Rattagan, aver si abris un puestito de choripanes como los que hay en la costanera de Buenos Aires y convertis al "chori" en el proximo "kebab".

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